I was incredibly lucky to study abroad in Salalah, Oman as an undergraduate participant in the State Department-funded Critical Language Scholarship (CLS). I spent a summer there deeply immersed in Arabic language study, Omani culture, my first Ramadhan in a Muslim country, and the legendary khareef (خريف) monsoon season that transforms the Dhofar region in the south of Oman each year. My time in Salalah is one of my fondest and most beautiful memories. My study abroad pushed me beyond my comfort zone but also took me to new heights in my own resilience, commitment to my chosen field of international affairs, and my language abilities.
So I was thrilled to have the opportunity to finally show M and S a place that was so meaningful to me. (Also, fun fact for fellow members of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church, also known as the Mormon Church to many): Salalah is widely considered by scholars to be the most likely location for Bountiful, referenced in the Book of Mormon.) Salalah is just a short flight from Dubai, and I booked the trip right at the start of khareef. Salalah is beautiful any time of year, but the khareef is very special because the monsoon rains take the temperature down immensely and contribute to a verdant, luscious scene of waterfalls, trees, and crashing waves that make the south of Oman the hottest (or coolest, if we're speaking literally) destination of the region that time of year.
My gamble to book our trip right at the start of khareef totally paid off, since there were no crowds where we went but the monsoon rains had just begun. This meant stunning nature views with gently cascading waterfalls, misty mountainscapes, and boat rides through flourishing green hills and valleys. It's a nature lover's dream!
I have to plug the most famous spot of all during khareef: Wadi Darbat. This was just as beautiful as I remembered it from 12 years ago, except that the infrastructure is much more built up with a nice, new stroller-friendly boardwalk by the water and periodic stations for family fun including tethered Zorb balls on the river for older kids, cafes with a view of the greenery, and many very inexpensive boat rides.
I was surprised to find that the boat ride vendors even accepted international credit cards; the last time I was there, it was Omani rials in cash only! S loved our family boat ride, and I was grateful we brought his infant life jacket. They provide life jackets on the boat, but I didn't find any with appropriate head support for a child as young as S who cannot swim.
We also visited a spot with some unique and impressive natural phenomena: Marneef Cave and blow holes, overlooking Al Mughsayl Beach. As the aggressive monsoon waves lapped up to the rocky cliffside, some of the water was forced through natural holes in the rock, spurting up in spectacular fashion through blow holes on the viewing platform. The caves themselves were also beautiful, with a range of colors and rock types that would appeal to anyone, regardless of your geology knowledge.
Jebel Samhan was another must-see on my list, so we drove up and enjoyed the rolling fog and edges of clouds over a red-clay, rocky landscape that looked like something straight out of a great science fiction movie. I had hoped to do a lot more hiking while we were there, but unfortunately some of us got a little sick from something we picked up at the hotel near the end of our trip. Since we weren't all feeling up to hiking, we did some scenic drives and relaxing days by the water instead. (Hiking is also a very different game with a small child, so trust me when I say nobody wants to go on a family hike when someone is too sick.)
I'm so grateful for the privilege of living in the Arab world and having the chance to visit Salalah again. I truly consider it one of the most special places on the planet, and I couldn't recommend it more to anyone lucky enough to travel there.
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